To my delight, the first day of surf was at 2pm, meaning I was able to sleep in. After a morning yoga session focused on shoulders I indulged in a delicious breakfast and then lounged around until it was time to get ready to surf. Admittedly, I felt the need to perform well to show I’ve actually improved since I was last here in 2016.
I had my same surf instructor as last time, Mike. I enjoy joking around with him, but I tried my best to stay focused for my dad’s sake. I’m happy to report that we both fared well in the waves…me a bit further back 😉 It was so much fun to get out there again. I just love the waves at this beach. Since today was a success for me, I was given the option to do the morning surf tomorrow behind the break. At first I said no, but with some encouragement from the others who went out this morning I committed.
My favorite thing (besides surfing) at Shaka is the communal dinner. It helps that the group of people staying here are all super cool, interesting and fun. We exchanged stories and got to know each other better throughout the evening. Casey, a natural story teller, had THE craziest tales to share. I was the first to go to bed again tonight which my dad and Jon liked to give me a hard time for since I’m the youngest. I just wanted to be fresh for the big waves tomorrow.
It could have been that I was hungry, or maybe it was nerves, but I was pretty shaky when I woke up. I knew the waves were bigger than normal today and that some of the group didn’t even make it out past the break yesterday morning. Heidi was a ball of energy and shared her coffee, so I eventually got pumped up, but still had the shakes. We headed to the beach and after a safety talk and paddle out refresher, we waited for the right moment and started out. I’ll be honest, I wouldn’t have made it out without a few nudges on my board from today’s coach, Nick. I’m glad he helped though, because after taking my first green wave I remembered how much adrenaline and fun you have while riding the big ones! I had 3 great waves, but then my energy levels drained and I was getting sloppy. We all felt very proud of ourselves because the waves were not easy today, very big and powerful! Having now done an afternoon surf and a morning surf, I realize now that I prefer 6am better because it’s a great start to the day. It also makes breakfast followed by so much more deserved!
I still went out to the beach in the afternoon to take some pictures of my dad and catch a few white waves myself. After which, we treated ourselves to a massage. They were killer massages that really helped loosen up my shoulders. The evening consisted of more drinks at sunset, “family” dinner, lots of laughs and of course, the youngest to bed first.